Other Potential Leakpaths

Driven Gear Seal

The seal that that rides on the driveshaft end of the secondary-drive driven gear can also be a leakpath . It has been indicated that this seal is prone to leakage and should be inspected and replaced as needed. While the amount of gear-lube that can escape out of the seal is generally small, it can still allow the lube in the secondary to reach a dangerously low level if left unattended.

Replacement seals from Suzuki are generally reddish-brown in color probably indicating a compound change from the original black seal. The author believes that the reddish-brown color indicates a rubber compound with a higher temperature tolerance and it may therefore last longer. The new seals are also slightly taller moving the seal lip to a new location on the shaft surface in the event the shaft has a groove in it where the original seal lip rode.

The installation of this seal requires the secondary to be removed from the bike. The author recommends that a Cade Cork fix (or other noted fix) and seal replacement be done together. Also, there are several other seals that are exposed when the secondary drive unit is removed and those should also be replaced. A list of all the seals and gaskets needed to do a secondary R&R are listed at the end of this article.

And, while the secondary is off, you can remove the driveshaft and inspect the u-joint for looseness and replaced if needed.

Other Things to Minimize the Risk

1) Check the gear-lube (80-90W) in the final drive regularly for proper level and change it in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendation. Author recommends synthetic or semi-synthetic gear-oil

2) Tightness of all bolts pertaining to the drive system should be checked regularly. Use of a torque wrench is recommended

3) Turn off the stereo and listen to the bike now and then. You may want to ride it without a helmet (please do this only in the most controlled situations when there are no other vehicles on the road you are on) briefly to pick up any strange noises that may be damped by helmet and its lining

4) Check the wear of the brake pads and replace the brake fluid in the system at a minimum every 2 years

5) Lubricate the brake pedal pivot and linkage regularly to prevent sticking

6) Be aware of any strange feel. If something doesn't feel right, look into it before riding further.

This article in no way intends to address all of the possible causes of rear wheel lockup. It does, however, attempt to address the most common issues that have been expressed by the 1200+ members of the Cavalcade e-mail group. Any motorcycle can experience a locked rear wheel due to any number of causes beyond those expressed here. However, when a bike is well-maintained with particular attention given to the drive system, the occurrence of a locked rear wheel at speed becomes extremely unlikely.

Happy Riding

OEM Parts List

Secondary R&R
Output seal - 09283-29005
Secondary to Motor seal - 09283-48012
Clutch Pushrod seal - 09285-06016
Shifter Shaft seal - 09285-12002
Clutch Slave Cylinder seal - 23163-05A00
Stator Cover Gasket - 11483-24A00-H17
Secondary to Motor gasket - 24936-24A01-H17
Stator Cover bolt gasket - 09168-06023
Clutch Line crush washers (2) - Russell (Parts Unlimited) #49005 (or OEM 09161-10009)

Note: A kit containing all of the items above is available from the Author. Click here.

Replacement Driveshaft - 27100-24A06