Put some masking tape on the top of the trunk as shown at left. The tape will be used to mark the locations for drilling the mounting holes.
NOTE! The rack that I bought had some chrome flash in the mounting threads and I had to run a 1/4"-20 tap into them to clean it out.
Included with the standoff kit are 4 headless bolts. Thread the shorter ones into the front legs of the rack so that when the shorter standoffs are slipped onto the bolts the ends of the bolts don't stick out the lower end of the standoffs. Use some masking tape to hold the standoffs to the rack legs temporarily. The larger diameter of the standoffs (pads) goes towards the trunk.
Repeat for the rear legs using the longer headless bolts and longer standoffs. NOTE! Rotate the longer standoffs so that the thicker part of the pad is at the front and tape them to the rack legs.
With the bike on the centerstand, sit the rack with standoffs attached on top of the trunk. The pads should be sitting on the masking tape that you applied earlier.
Carefully measure the rack so that it is centered and straight on the trunk. The picture at left shows where I installed it but you can move it forward or backward to suit.
Remove the tape holding the standoffs to the rack and remove the headless bolts.
For each mounting bolt, slide a 1/4" washer and a thick rubber tube on and slide it through the trunk lid from underneath and then put a thin rubber tube on then the standoff and thread them into the rack legs. An extra pair of hands doesn't hurt at this point.
NOTE! To insure that no water gets between the rack legs and the tops of the standoffs, put a little clear silicone sealer on the top rim of the standoffs.
Get all of the bolts started into the legs before starting to tighten each.
Make sure that the thick part of the pad on the rear standoffs is facing forward and tighten each mounting bolt until the thin rubber washer on top of the trunk is compressed to about 1/2 it's original thickness.
Load it up with gear and take a ride.